SEAFOLK || MA BIODESIGN FINAL PROJECT
With a seaweed-based biomaterial at its heart, SEAFOLK celebrates local resources, supports local artisans, and revives sustainable heritage crafts.
Surrounded by ocean, Cornwall is home to over 500 seaweed species that sequester carbon and grow up to two feet per day. Through responsible harvesting, SEAFOLK reimagines this abundant, renewable resource as both a natural dye and an alternative material.
Integrated with local wool, this biomaterial aims to revive the sustainable design of the Cornish Gansey—a traditional fisherman’s jumper. The project explores the jumper’s cultural significance in relation to pattern, identity and sense of place. By collaborating with local knitters, SEAFOLK spins together traditional knowledge with regenerative and circular design approaches, creating a dialogue between the two.
The resulting process - spinning, dyeing, and knitting sea-sourced materials – reflects this circularity. SEAFOLK is designed to return to the ocean and biodegrade, leaving only its story behind.
From the sea. To the sea.
Final knitted jumpers, dyed with seaweed and embellished with seaweed yarn. Inspired by the Cornish Ganseys
Kelp to Yarn: Local Cornish Kelp was collected from nearby beaches to be transformed in yarn
Kelp to Yarn: Through green chemistry, a biopolymer found in seaweed could be extracted in the Grow Lab. Photo by Pink Wave Photography
Kelp to Yarn: extracted biopolymer under the microscope.
Kelp to Yarn: 100% seaweed fibres made from extracted biopolymer
Kelp to Yarn: These fibres were then spun into yarn. Photo by Pink Wave Photography
Collaboration: I worked closely with the Cornish Guild of Weavers, Spinner and Dyers to develop these fibres.
Dulse to Dye: a red algae known as dulse was also collected from local beaches. Photo by Pink Wave Photography
Dulse to Dye: The pink pigment from this seaweed was extracted using traditional methods. Photo by Pink Wave Photography
Dulse to Dye: This pink pigment was then used as a natural dye. Photo by Pink Wave Photography
Heritage: The Cornish Gansey is a traditional fisherman's jumper. They were originally knitted with wool and dyed with woad. They were a real symbol of identity with each pattern specific to each fishing village. It is said these helped identity those who lost their lives at sea, or so the fishermen's tale goes. There also featured the wearer's initials within the knit. They were a real product of sustainable and durable design, but unfortunately there are only a few still worn today. Photo from Mary Wright's book 'Cornish Guernseys and Knit-focks', 2008.
Heritage: Mary Langmaid and Elizabeth Jane Joliffe from Polperro, Cornwall knitting ganseys. Originally these jumper were knitted collaborativley with the fishermen's daughters knitting the ribbing and the wives and mothers knitting the more complex patterning. Photo from Mary Wright's book 'Cornish Guernseys and Knit-frocks', 2008
Collaboration: I worked with local knitters to develop my final jumpers. Pictured is Phyllis Rashleigh from St Ives, the last gansey knitter left in the village.
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